SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA

Key Features of Sydney:

Sydney Opera House: One of the most recognizable landmarks in the world, the Sydney Opera House is renowned for its unique architectural design and hosts various performing arts events.

Sydney Harbour Bridge: Another iconic landmark, the Sydney Harbour Bridge is a major transportation route connecting the city's central business district with the North Shore.

Beaches: Sydney is known for its beautiful beaches, including Bondi Beach, Manly Beach, and Coogee Beach, which attract both locals and tourists.

Cultural Institutions: The city is home to a range of cultural institutions, such as the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the Australian Museum, and the Museum of Contemporary Art.

Events and Festivals: Sydney hosts numerous events and festivals throughout the year, including the Sydney Festival, Vivid Sydney (a light and music festival), and New Year's Eve celebrations with fireworks over Sydney Harbour.

Natural Landscapes: Beyond the urban areas, Sydney offers natural beauty with national parks, coastal walks, and outdoor recreational opportunities.

Overall, Sydney's history, culture, and landmarks make it a vibrant and dynamic city that attracts people from around the world for various reasons, whether it's for tourism, education, business, or lifestyle.

Forgive me for not recounting the settlement/invasion of Sydney Cove on 26 January, 1788 by British forces on behalf of the King of England. Aboriginal land. Always was. Always will be.

We found a very expensive parking space as Coral Princess docked this morning with views to the Harbour Bridge and Opera House.

I’m not sure whether Brisbane can match this, but we purchased two all day tickets on any transport system in Sydney for $5. So, we took the Ferry to Manly and had a pleasant day wandering around the shopping centre and Manly Beach.

Many of the 2000 passengers disembarked in Sydney but were immediately replaced by others who will embark on a round-Australia trip for a month. Some, like us, stayed on to leave in Brisbane, but the ship will be filled once again. Cruising is a very big business.

 THE BAY OF ISLANDS, NEW ZEALAND

The Bay of Islands is a historically significant region located in the North Island of New Zealand. Its history dates back to ancient times when the area was inhabited by the indigenous Māori people. Here's a brief overview of the history of the Bay of Islands:

Māori

Settlement: The Māori people have a long history in the Bay of Islands region, with evidence suggesting that they have inhabited the area for several centuries. The fertile lands, abundant seafood, and strategic location made the bay an attractive place to settle. The Māori established thriving communities and engaged in fishing, farming, and trade.

European

Exploration and Contact: In the late 18th century, European explorers began to visit the Bay of Islands. The British explorer Captain James Cook arrived in the area in 1769, during his first voyage to New Zealand. Cook's interactions with the Māori and his detailed mapping of the coastline contributed to European knowledge of the region.

Missionary

Activity: The early 19th century saw the arrival of Christian missionaries to the Bay of Islands, seeking to convert the Māori to Christianity. The most notable mission station was established at Paihia in 1823 by Henry Williams, who played a significant role in facilitating communication between the Māori and the British government.

Treaty of Waitangi:

One of the most pivotal moments in New Zealand's history occurred in the Bay of Islands. On February 6, 1840, the Treaty of Waitangi was signed at Waitangi, a historic site within the bay. The treaty established British sovereignty over New Zealand while guaranteeing Māori rights and protections. However, differing interpretations of the treaty's terms led to conflicts between the British settlers and the Māori, resulting in the New Zealand Wars.

Colonial Settlement and Development:

After the signing of the treaty, European settlers began to establish communities in the Bay of Islands region. Russell (formerly known as Kororāreka) became an early European settlement and an important trading port. The town faced challenges, including lawlessness and clashes between European settlers and Māori.

Whaling and Maritime Activity:

During the 19th century, the Bay of Islands was a hub for whaling and maritime activities. The region's natural harbours and abundant marine life attracted whalers, traders, and sailors from around the world. This maritime industry played a significant role in the region's economy.

Tourism and Preservation:

In the 20th century, the Bay of Islands began to transition from a centre of industry to a tourist destination. Its stunning natural beauty, historical sites, and recreational opportunities attracted visitors from New Zealand and beyond. Efforts were also made to preserve the region's historic sites and protect its natural environment.

Today, the Bay of Islands remains a popular tourist destination, known for its picturesque landscapes, water-based activities, and historical significance. It continues to honour its Māori heritage and serves as a reminder of the complex interactions between indigenous peoples and European settlers in New Zealand's history.

Well it’s breakfast in bed for our second last stop in the Bay of Islands.

There is no port facility in the Bay of Islands for a ship as large as this, so passengers board the ship’s tenders for the short journey in.

The Bay of Islands was something of a surprise. It is massive! The bay itself is an irregularly shaped 16 km wide ‘drowned valley’ system following massive volcanic activity over the millennia  and has become a natural harbour; it contains 144 islands, of which the largest is Urupukapuka, and numerous peninsulas and inlets. The three largest inlets are Waikato Inlet in the south, and Kerikeri and Te Puna inlets in the north-west.  The Purerua Peninsula North of Te Puna Inlet separates the north western part of the bay from the Pacific Ocean. The biggest town is Kerikeri followed by Paihai. The small town of Russell is located at the end of a short peninsula that extends into the bay from the South.

We also witnessed on our departure on this cool but clear evening countless flying fish seemingly darting back and forth. We have seen them occasionally on past voyages but these were putting on quite a performance.

Flying fish are ray-finned fish with highly modified pectoral fins. Despite their name, flying fish are not capable of powered flight. Instead they propel themselves out of the water at speeds of more than 60 km/h. Once in the air, their rigid fins allow them to glide for up to 200 m. The wing like pectoral fins are primarily for gliding; the fish holds its fins flat at their sides when swimming. Their streamlined sides reduce drag when ‘flying’. Another characteristic of the flying fish is its unevenly forked tail. Flying fish can be up to 45 cm long but average 17 to 30 cm.

It is thought they evolved this capacity to escape being eaten by larger fish. Very ingenious!

Now two days at sea to Sydney.

.

AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Māori were the first to arrive in New Zealand about a thousand years ago journeying in canoes from Hawaiki, which, according to Polynesian mythology is the original home of the Polynesians before dispersal across Polynesia. Hawaiki also features as the Underworld in many Māori stories.

A dutchman, Abel Tasman was the first European to sight the country, but it was the British who made New Zealand part of their Empire. In 1840 the Treaty of Waitangi was signed as an agreement between the British Crown and the Māori. It established British Law in New Zealand and is considered the country's founding document and an important part of its history. It ultimately ensured that its inhabitants had a Voice to Parliament. Currently, seven electorates are reserved for MPs elected on a separate Māori Roll. However, Māori may elect to vote in and run for the non-reserved electorates and for the Party List.

Auckland Harbour

Port Auckland's cruising industry is a large contributor to the city economy. Each ship call brings in about NZD 1 Million from passenger spending. New Zealand was ranked as the fourth largest international passenger cruising market - following Australia, UK, and the USA.

The city of Auckland straddles a narrow isthmus created by 60 different volcanoes. Auckland served as New Zealand's capital from 1841 to 1865 when the seat of Government moved to Wellington. Rangitoto, Auckland's youngest and largest volcano sits in majestic splendour just off shore. Mt Eden and One Tree Hill, once home to Māori earthworks, overlook the city and one of NZ's fine wine districts lies just to the north of Auckland.

Like most of New Zealand, Auckland is steeped in fascinating Māori legend. When they first arrived around 1350, they believed they had sailed into an enchanted land populated by warring fairies. They lived a relatively peaceful existence until the British arrived and established a colonial base here in 1840. The gold rush twelve years later swept through Auckland and by 1900, Auckland was NZ’s largest city.

We arrived in Auckland on a cool cloudy day that soon turned to bright sunshine. The Auckland Harbour Bridge may not be as spectacular as the Sydney Harbour Bridge, but at night it lights up in a variety of colours kept watch by the Harbour Masters Cottage looking like a doll house from our our balcony above?

Auckland is a beautiful modern city with its Main Street dominated by the land marking Skytower. We are sorry Harley and Mary were unable to show us the sights. There is much to see here in this city of 1.673 million.

Tomorrow we sail quite a short distance up to the Bay of Islands and the location of the Treaty of Waitangi. Farewell Auckland on a clear cool, breezy night.

 A VERY EARLY NAVIGATOR

If you were to stand on the very top of this ship and cast your eyes around 360 degrees, for the past three days, you would see only a circle of open sea in all directions, no ships, no land, no sea life. Imagine venturing out into this great unknown in canoes like the Polynesians did in the Pacific Ocean or in sailing ships with very rudimentary navigational equipment venturing out into the Atlantic Ocean, south to find a way around Africa as Diaz did or west to find India as Columbus did.

The Naval Historian presented an interesting lecture today on the first navigators of the World with reference to the usual ones from our Western history lessons: Great sea explorers like Bartolomeu Diaz, Francis Drake, Christopher Columbus, and Ferdinand Magellan. But the first great sea explorer referred to today was China’s Zheng He. 

On an earlier cruise to China four years ago, I had also researched this remarkable sea explorer and included the report which I have repeated below. Almost a hundred years earlier than the exploits of the Spanish and Portuguese, this remarkable navigation from China west to Africa had been achieved.

“By the start of the 15th century, China had thrown off its earlier Mongol ruling regime and a new dynasty had commenced, the Ming dynasty, which would rule until 1644. A key concept that undergirded authority in China was the idea of the “mandate of heaven,” a concept that went back to the 4th century B.C. and was introduced by Confucian scholars. The heavenly mandate meant that when a ruler or a dynasty ruled in accordance with the laws of harmony in nature, its virtue would produce prosperity, well-being, and a government that was good for the people at large. We could do with some of that philosophy in the 21st Century!

By contrast, rulers whose misrule violated the mandate of heaven would bring down social disorder and natural disasters: floods, famines, plagues. After the disruptions that had passed under previous Mongol rule, the Ming dynasty prized stability and order—deeply Confucian values. The name of the emperor, Yongle, meant “perpetual happiness.” At this time, Ming China had the most wealth and population of any economy in the world. At this time, China presented a dramatic contrast with Europe—an advanced civilization compared to a society that remained relatively primitive. 

The Ming dynasty was not isolated or intellectually incurious, and its earliest rulers were adventurous. Emperor Yongle fought against the Mongols, invaded Vietnam, and ordered his great admiral, Zheng He, to launch a series of voyages across the Indian Ocean. At the orders of his emperor, Zheng He sailed on seven voyages throughout Asia. The first of these took place in 1405 and the last in 1433. The fleets sailed to Malacca, Java, Sumatra in Indonesia, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Siam, India, the Persian Gulf, the Red Sea, Somalia, Zanzibar, and perhaps, Kenya.

These fleets must have been imposing to see! Along with many smaller boats were the great treasure ships, 400 feet long with up to nine masts, watertight bulkheads, multiple cabins and decks, and huge crews. Europeans at this point had nothing that could compare. The voyages had many different purposes, but common to all was the projection of an image of power throughout the region to impress the claims to China’s centrality and the emperor’s authority.

In 1433, these diplomatic voyages were stopped. What if the fleets had continued and had ranged even further? What if they had rounded the southern tip of Africa and continued westward to discover the American continents? Or what if they had headed beyond Java to come at new worlds from the east? A tantalising prospect in the history of World discovery!

Why were the voyages discontinued? First, Zheng, he died in 1433. A tomb exists today in his hometown of Nanjing, but it is empty and, for many years, was all but forgotten. Economic pressures may also have played a role as internal improvements made domestic trade more profitable than speculative overseas trade. The real point of the voyages was to awe with what we today would call “soft power”: the glory, impressiveness, and riches of Chinese culture, which the imperial elite saw as central to the world as a whole. The expeditions were about confirming something that was already known: the universal authority of the Chinese emperor and China’s civilization. So, with the imperial Chinese authority so dramatically vindicated the mission of the voyages was accomplished.”

From: The Great Courses - Turning Points in History

The other question we should ask is, “Why did we ignore this particular piece of history in the teaching of the early explorers of the New World of the 15th Century?” In my opinion, it is more evidence of systemic racism towards China following the British, French and Portuguese invasion and colonisation of parts of China, of the treatment of the Chinese on our goldfields  in the 1850s, and our White Australia Policy only so recently overturned. Of course, we should also admire the navigational skills of the Polynesians in the Pacific or the story of Australian Aborigines who somehow found their way here more than 60,000 years ago.

 STILL CRUISIN’

Two very quiet days at sea and three more to go before Auckland, NZ. We had hoped to catch up with Harley and Mary Burke in Auckland but unfortunately they are now unable to travel up to Auckland from their home in Cambridge near Hamilton. It is about 150kms away so I can understand they have now decided the driving is a bit much but have promised a trip to Brisbane in the future. Harley is a couple of years older than I and we met in Port Alberni, BC, Canada. He boarded with us when our Nat was just a baby. 

So we are still cruisin’, eating and drinking too much, attending the morning lectures and evening shows. However, I seem to have contracted a man-cold which is far worse than a woman-cold and M has gone off alone to dinner and the theatre. Tonight is also designated as a ‘formal’ night, meaning as formal as you want it to be. Some go all out with suits and gowns; so I am happy to have missed that, but M is dressed fashionably as always. I ordered my evening meal on my phone and it was delivered to the room.

And so with little to do but read and add to the waist line, Michele got in the hot tub on deck 14.

 MOOREA (Papeete)

Settlement and Polynesian Culture: Moorea, located near Tahiti, was also settled by Polynesian navigators around the same time as Tahiti. It shares many cultural and historical similarities with its larger neighbor.

European Contact: Moorea was visited by European explorers like Cook and Bougainville, who contributed to the growing knowledge of the island.

Missionary Influence and Colonization: Similar to Tahiti, Moorea saw the arrival of Christian missionaries and the subsequent changes in culture and governance. The island also came under French control during the 19th century.

Economic Changes: In the modern era, Moorea has become a popular tourist destination, benefiting from its natural beauty, lagoons, and vibrant culture. Tourism has had a significant impact on the local economy.

Both Tahiti and Moorea have faced challenges stemming from colonisation, Western influence, and environmental concerns. However, their rich cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes continue to draw visitors and interest from around the world. 

Welcome to Moorea as Coral Princess drops anchor at 7.00am and passengers prepare to take the tenders ashore.

According to Polynesian legend, the island’s volcanic ridges are remnants of a fish’s dorsal fin; and when a golden-skinned lizard became trapped on a reef, the gods turned the little reptile into the island of Moorea, which in Polynesian means ‘golden lizard’. Polynesians settled these islands some 17,000 years ago and lived a quiet existence until whalers, missionaries and French military expeditions soon arrived. Moorea as well as other Society Islands were officially united as a French protectorate in 1889. The current population of Moorea is about 16,000. (Pronounced Moe-oh-ray-uh) The dramatic landscape and beaches of Moorea have enticed film makers to shoot scenes for numerous films including South Pacific.

I woke with the sniffles this morning and thought it more sensible not go on the tour to Moorea and share it with people on the tender and bus where everyone is in close proximity. But M ventured out alone and soon after arriving on the island negotiated a tour for $50 for a three hour trip on an air conditioned bus around the island. 

This is Michele’s account of the day:

We left the dockside and travelled up and up into the hills and Belvedere Lookout along a very narrow and steep road with hairpin bends. The view back to our ship waiting patiently for our return was amazing. And then it was back down the winding mountain road to a pineapple plantation by Cook’s Bay (where apparently Cook never visited), passing shrimp farms and the ruins of a Polynesian Temple. Here we visited a shop selling black pearls and sampled fresh pineapple juice.

The driver informed us that there is full employment of the population either here or in Papeete. The island has only six policemen, one fire department, and one hospital (although no major operations are performed there). Around 5000 people including children over sixteen do the daily commute to Papeete for work or schooling. Children begin schooling in Moorea on their third birthday until 16  and all schooling is at no cost to parents. Average wages are around $1500 a month and have one month annual leave. They receive aged pensions. The island is clean, green and friendly.

The tour guide recounted the coming of the missionaries who had informed the Tahitians their three gods (of the Sky, Ocean, and Earth) were bad gods. The first missionaries were Protestant “and we ate them all!” (And the entire bus clapped and cheered) An Aussie passenger commented it was a pity they weren’t Catholics as they would be more pickled and marinated but tasty!

The circumnavigation of the island was truly beautiful and we were treated to breaching whales as we took the tender back to the ship.

 TAHITI & MOOREA

                                                                 TAHITI (Papeete)

Ancient Settlement: The islands of Tahiti were likely settled by Polynesian explorers around 800 CE. The settlers brought with them their distinct culture, language, and societal structures.

European Contact: The first European to make contact with Tahiti was British explorer Samuel Wallis in 1767. Later, in 1768, French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville arrived. However, it was the British explorer James Cook who visited the islands multiple times between 1769 and 1777, contributing significantly to European knowledge of Tahiti.

European Influence: The arrival of European explorers marked the beginning of increased contact between Tahitians and Europeans. This contact led to changes in local culture, trade, and introduced new diseases that had a devastating impact on the native population.

Missionary Influence: In the 19th century, Christian missionaries arrived on Tahiti, leading to the conversion of many Tahitians to Christianity and the introduction of Western values and education systems.

Colonization: Tahiti officially became a French protectorate in 1842, and later in 1880, it was fully annexed by France. This colonisation period brought about further changes in governance, economy, and culture.

World War II: During World War II, Tahiti served as an important base for the United States in the Pacific. The presence of American forces had a significant impact on the local economy and culture.

Modern Era: In the latter half of the 20th century, Tahiti experienced increased tourism, contributing to economic growth. The islands also gained limited self-governance and are now an overseas collectivity of France.

A very hot and steamy day as we arrive in Papeete, the capital city of Tahiti with population around 32,000. The name Papeete is derived from the Tahitian word, ‘pape’ for water and ‘ete’ meaning basket. So, a place where people come with baskets of water or more simply ‘water well’.

We have visited Tahiti on two other cruises and we can see its growth over those years. Cruise ships dock seemingly in the main street of Papeete. Step through the scores of tour operators and a local Tahitian band and you are downtown.

And, of course the compulsory fabric and clothing markets. However, all prices were in Francs and any rough conversion to $US or $Aus suggested Tahiti was no longer a place for cheap bargains. We were pleased to be approached by a Tahitian resident offering us the opportunity to vote on the Referendum at the Australian Consulate if we hadn’t already done so. 

A brief walk through theTown Hall (opened by Charles de Gaulle) with its grand Salle des Marriages!

And so with temps and humidity off the charts, it is time for lunch and a cold beer.

The Coral Princess will remain in Papeete for most of tonight, take the short trip to Moorea in the early hours of tomorrow morning and anchor off shore. Passengers will take the ship’s tenders into Moorea. We will attempt to negotiate an island tour once we arrive.

So our night concludes with local Tahitian dancers in the Theatre. They were impressive!