MOOREA (Papeete)

Settlement and Polynesian Culture: Moorea, located near Tahiti, was also settled by Polynesian navigators around the same time as Tahiti. It shares many cultural and historical similarities with its larger neighbor.

European Contact: Moorea was visited by European explorers like Cook and Bougainville, who contributed to the growing knowledge of the island.

Missionary Influence and Colonization: Similar to Tahiti, Moorea saw the arrival of Christian missionaries and the subsequent changes in culture and governance. The island also came under French control during the 19th century.

Economic Changes: In the modern era, Moorea has become a popular tourist destination, benefiting from its natural beauty, lagoons, and vibrant culture. Tourism has had a significant impact on the local economy.

Both Tahiti and Moorea have faced challenges stemming from colonisation, Western influence, and environmental concerns. However, their rich cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes continue to draw visitors and interest from around the world. 

Welcome to Moorea as Coral Princess drops anchor at 7.00am and passengers prepare to take the tenders ashore.

According to Polynesian legend, the island’s volcanic ridges are remnants of a fish’s dorsal fin; and when a golden-skinned lizard became trapped on a reef, the gods turned the little reptile into the island of Moorea, which in Polynesian means ‘golden lizard’. Polynesians settled these islands some 17,000 years ago and lived a quiet existence until whalers, missionaries and French military expeditions soon arrived. Moorea as well as other Society Islands were officially united as a French protectorate in 1889. The current population of Moorea is about 16,000. (Pronounced Moe-oh-ray-uh) The dramatic landscape and beaches of Moorea have enticed film makers to shoot scenes for numerous films including South Pacific.

I woke with the sniffles this morning and thought it more sensible not go on the tour to Moorea and share it with people on the tender and bus where everyone is in close proximity. But M ventured out alone and soon after arriving on the island negotiated a tour for $50 for a three hour trip on an air conditioned bus around the island. 

This is Michele’s account of the day:

We left the dockside and travelled up and up into the hills and Belvedere Lookout along a very narrow and steep road with hairpin bends. The view back to our ship waiting patiently for our return was amazing. And then it was back down the winding mountain road to a pineapple plantation by Cook’s Bay (where apparently Cook never visited), passing shrimp farms and the ruins of a Polynesian Temple. Here we visited a shop selling black pearls and sampled fresh pineapple juice.

The driver informed us that there is full employment of the population either here or in Papeete. The island has only six policemen, one fire department, and one hospital (although no major operations are performed there). Around 5000 people including children over sixteen do the daily commute to Papeete for work or schooling. Children begin schooling in Moorea on their third birthday until 16  and all schooling is at no cost to parents. Average wages are around $1500 a month and have one month annual leave. They receive aged pensions. The island is clean, green and friendly.

The tour guide recounted the coming of the missionaries who had informed the Tahitians their three gods (of the Sky, Ocean, and Earth) were bad gods. The first missionaries were Protestant “and we ate them all!” (And the entire bus clapped and cheered) An Aussie passenger commented it was a pity they weren’t Catholics as they would be more pickled and marinated but tasty!

The circumnavigation of the island was truly beautiful and we were treated to breaching whales as we took the tender back to the ship.