HILO, BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII

Hilo is a port town and the largest settlement on the east side of the Big Island of Hawaii with a population around 45,000. The town overlooks Hilo Bay located on two 'shield' volcanos. Although shield volcanoes are the largest on Earth, they do not form soaring mountains with conical peaks like composite volcanoes. Instead, they are broad with gentle slopes and are shaped somewhat like a warrior's shield lying flat on the Earth. They erupt basalt lava viscosity is more fluid and can flow on the surface for large distances. These volcanoes are built up by repeated eruptions over vast periods of time.

So, what a different view from our balcony (below) as we entered Kona Bay. This is not how we expect volcanoes to look like! This is the summit of Mauna Loa volcano which stands some 17,000 metres above the depressed sea floor and is over 8230 metres taller than Mt Everest. Unlike explosive continental volcanoes, the more fluid and less gaseous eruptions of Kilauea and Mauna Loa produce fiery fountains and rivers of molten lava.

Today we took a bus tour to Hawaii National Park about an hour’s drive into the Big Island of Hawaii to view Kilauea. This is just one in an Hawaiian chain the result of 70 million years of volcanism, migration and evolution as forces beneath the earth remind us this is a living, forever changing planet. We peered into the caldera of Kilauea as stream rose from its core and surrounding fissures along walking trails.

Scientists say that the Hawaiian volcanoes have been unusually quiet since the eruptions last month but not so elsewhere in the world:

Though Hawaii’s volcanoes currently aren’t erupting, other volcanoes around the world remain active. Here in the United States, Great Sitkin and Shishaldin are erupting in Alaska, generating lava flows and ash plumes in the remote Aleutian Islands. Multiple volcanoes are active in the Democratic Republic of the Congo, Ecuador, Indonesia, Japan, The Philippines, and Russia. Individual volcanoes are also active in Chile, Ethiopia, Italy, Mexico, and Papua New Guinea.

On our way back to the Coral Princess we had a brief stop at a Macadamia Nut factory where this (originally Qld) product is a leading export from the Big Island of Hawaii.

Not very good at these. But here’s a ‘selfie’ before dinner: 

Great dinner tonight once again with four different Kiwis from the previous night. I’m starting to like Kiwis! Coral Princess will now cruise to the west side of the Big Island of Hawaii to Kona for our last visit to the Hawaiian Islands. There is no port facility in Kona big enough for this ship; so tenders back and forth will be required. Since we are ‘Platinum’ passengers, we will get priority boarding apparently!

Seas are so calm there is no sensation of movement while sleeping.

KAHULUI, MAUI ISLAND

So, Coral Princess has diverted from its intended destination of Lahaina after the devastating fires and relocated to Kahului on the eastern side of Maui. My research suggests that Kahului is really a non-touristy town and a commercial hub with businesses and shops; although it has the island's airport and a good harbour for visiting cruise ships. 

Here's a little bloody history from around Kahalui harbour:

Kahului Town & Harbour

Volcanic eruptions, tidal winds and torrential rains have shaped Maui’s landscape. Sacred myth has it that the beauty of this island was created by the Polynesian demigod who pulled the Hawaiian islands from the ocean’s depths, captured the Sun and set it atop Haleakala, the island’s highest peak. Kahului was not colonised until the 19th Century when sugar plantations were established by families of missionaries. 

Just look at these mountains coming down to meet Kahului Harbour as we sailed in this morning. It is not difficult to believe they were created by the gods!

Ancient Hawaiians believed the demigod Maui stepped out of the Haleakala Crater and captured the sun forcing it to slow its journey across the sky so his people could enjoy more sunshine. More than 75% of Maui’s land area is isolated and inaccessible due to extreme terrain and rainforests.

A fifteen minute minute walk into the town of Kahului confirmed it was unused to being a tourist centre. The island’s airport is nearby and helicopters buzzed the skies with tourists or for commercial purposes. It has a sugarcane museum to mark its early history in the sugar industry.

Evening meals are mostly accessed from two large restaurants that come with the cost of the fare. Whom you join over dinner depends on the luck of the draw as settings include tables of four, six, eight and ten. We try to join smaller tables to compensate for my poor hearing but they are all manageable. Everyone has a story of course and most people share the time; but occasionally one person thinks their story of where they live, past employment, family, where the have cruised to, and so on is the most interesting and monopolises the conversation. But most are sensitive to sharing the time. Last night we had a delightful dinner with two Kiwi couples from the North Island.

Tomorrow is Hilo on the Big Island of Hawaii.

 LAHAINA, MAUI ISLAND

Lahaina is a historic town located on the western coast of Maui Island in Hawaii. (red dot) It holds great significance in the history of Hawaii and has evolved from a bustling whaling port to a popular tourist destination.

Ancient Hawaiian Settlements: Before the arrival of European explorers, Lahaina was home to ancient Hawaiian settlements. The area was favored for its fertile land and access to the ocean, which provided resources for sustenance and trade.

Arrival of Europeans: In the late 18th century, European explorers, traders, and missionaries began arriving in Hawaii. The first contact between Hawaiians and Europeans in Lahaina occurred in the 1790s when ships from various countries, including Britain and the United States, began to visit the area.

Whaling Era: One of the most significant periods in Lahaina's history was the whaling era, which spanned from the early 19th century to the mid-1800s. Lahaina Harbor became a busy whaling port, attracting sailors, merchants, and other visitors from around the world. Whaling ships would stop in Lahaina to restock supplies, repair ships, and provide rest for the crews.

Missionary Influence: Christian missionaries, primarily from New England, arrived in Lahaina in the early 19th century with the intention of spreading Christianity and Western education. The missionaries established schools, introduced the written Hawaiian language, and built structures that still stand today, such as the Lahaina Jodo Mission and the Waineʻe Church.

Hawaiian Royalty and Lahaina: Lahaina served as the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom from 1820 to 1845, during the reign of King Kamehameha III. It was a center of political and economic activity during this time.

Whaling Decline and Transition: By the mid-1800s, the whaling industry began to decline due to factors like overhunting and the discovery of alternative sources of oil. Lahaina's importance as a whaling port diminished, and the town gradually shifted towards a focus on agriculture, particularly sugar cane cultivation.

Sugar Plantations and Tourism: In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the sugar industry took over as the dominant economic force in Lahaina and throughout Maui. Sugar plantations brought in a diverse workforce, including immigrants from Asia and other parts of the world.

Modern Era and Tourism: In the mid-20th century, the sugar industry began to decline, and Lahaina started to shift its economic focus toward tourism. The town's historic significance, combined with its beautiful oceanfront location, attracted tourists looking for a glimpse of Hawaii's past and its natural beauty.

And then in August 2023, fires swept down upon the town with very little warning. Two pictures of Lahaina before and after the horrendous fires above. More than 100 killed and homes & livelihoods lost. Lahaina is/was a tourist town.  A similar event also occurred in 2019 and it was thought that warning systems put in place after that tragedy would ensure this loss of lives would not happen again. The 2000 passengers on Coral Princess will not be embarking here as had been planned but at Nawiliwili.

NAWILIWILI , KAUAI ISLAND

Nawiliwili is a port and area located on the island of Kauai in the state of Hawaii, United States. It has a significant history tied to the indigenous Hawaiian culture and the development of the island.

Hawaiian Settlement: Before European contact, the Hawaiian islands were inhabited by Polynesian settlers who established their communities across the islands. Kauai, where Nawiliwili is situated, was no exception. The area around Nawiliwili likely had Hawaiian settlements and agricultural activities.

Contact with Europeans: The late 18th century saw the arrival of European explorers, primarily led by British Captain James Cook. Cook's visit to the Hawaiian Islands in 1778 marked the beginning of increased contact with the outside world. Subsequent European and American visitors and traders arrived, leading to changes in Hawaiian society, culture, and economy.

Western Influence and Economy: As Western influence grew, so did the demand for Hawaiian goods such as sandalwood and sugarcane. The Nawiliwili area became significant as a trading post and a port for ships engaged in the sandalwood trade. This led to a shift in the local economy, with increased interaction between Hawaiians and foreigners.

Missionary and Missionary Influence: In the early 19th century, Christian missionaries arrived in Hawaii, aiming to spread their faith and establish schools and churches. The Nawiliwili area likely saw the influence of these missionaries in terms of cultural and religious changes.

Sugarcane Plantations: The mid-19th century marked a significant period of change in Hawaii's economy, as sugarcane cultivation and production became a major industry. Sugar plantations were established across the islands, including Kauai. While the Nawiliwili area wasn't as prominent for sugarcane as other parts of Kauai, it likely experienced some influence from this industry.

Modern Development and Tourism: In the 20th century, Hawaii's economy transitioned from agriculture to tourism. The natural beauty and tropical climate of Kauai attracted visitors from around the world. Nawiliwili, being a port, played a role in facilitating tourism by serving as a point of entry for cruise ships and visitors.

Nawiliwili Harbor: The harbour in Nawiliwili has been developed over the years to accommodate both commercial and recreational vessels. It serves as a hub for cargo shipping, cruise tourism, and other maritime activities.

Contemporary Significance: Today, Nawiliwili continues to be a gateway for tourists arriving by sea, with cruise ships often docking at the harbor. The area is also home to Lihue Airport, the main airport on Kauai, further emphasizing its role in transportation and tourism.

While Nawiliwili may not have a history as well-documented as some other places, it has undoubtedly played a part in the broader history of Kauai and Hawaii, especially in terms of its role in trade, transportation, and the changing economic landscape over the centuries.

The first thing to say about the Hawaiians on this island is that they must be great golfers. That’s the golf club at the top and the ninth green by the water’s edge and the lighthouse as we enter Nawiliwili Harbour.

It is a gorgeous morning as Coral Princess is bullied by two powerful tugs to its dock in this delightful harbour. Temperature is expected to be 27 with low humidity unlike yesterday’s uncomfortable conditions in Honolulu. Wiliwili is apparently the name for a tree or trees in general. ‘Na’ simply indicates the plural - so, Nawiliwili means many trees.

We took the trolley bus (surprisingly free, courtesy of Princess) into the small town not far from the port. M quickly found herself again in a clothing store featuring garments in Hawaiian fabrics. One of the ‘bucket list’ activities for many Aussies on this cruise has been to visit a Walmart store. These mega-stores sell everything - think giant Costco. There are many tours organised by Princess that can be undertaken to the interior of the island to include hiking to waterfalls, parks and gardens, and historical sights. Some passengers join up to hire a taxi or Uber to explore the island further. 

This one might be a little large!

Light rain with storm clouds roll across Nawiliwili as we set sail into the night and Kahului on Maui Island.

 

And tonight in the theatre the best act we have ever seen! Ever!

 HONOLULU, OAHU 

History of O'ahu and Honolulu

O'ahu, the third-largest Hawaiian island, is rich and diverse, shaped by both indigenous Hawaiian culture and the influences of outside cultures, particularly European and American influences. 

1. Ancient Hawaiian Settlements (Before 18th Century): O'ahu was likely settled by Polynesian voyagers around 1,500 years ago. The island's fertile valleys and abundant natural resources supported a thriving indigenous Hawaiian population. The island was divided into several chiefdoms, each ruled by a local chief or ali'i.
2. Unification of the Hawaiian Islands (Late 18th Century - Early 19th Century): In the late 18th century, the island of Hawai'i's chief, Kamehameha I, embarked on a series of campaigns to unify the Hawaiian Islands under his rule. O'ahu was conquered in 1795 after the Battle of Nu'uanu, and Kamehameha established O'ahu as his political center.
3. Contact with Europeans (Late 18th Century): European explorers, including Captain James Cook, arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in the late 18th century. Their contact with the native population led to the introduction of new diseases and changes in the Hawaiian way of life.
4. Missionary Influence and Cultural Transformation (Early 19th Century): In the early 19th century, American Christian missionaries arrived in Hawai'i, bringing with them new cultural, religious, and economic influences. The introduction of Christianity and Western practices significantly altered traditional Hawaiian society.
5. Era of Hawaiian Monarchy (19th Century): O'ahu remained an important political and economic centre during the reign of the Hawaiian monarchy. The capital city of Honolulu, located on O'ahu, became the hub of commerce and government. King Kamehameha III moved the capital from Maui to O'ahu in 1845.
6. Overthrow of the Hawaiian Kingdom (Late 19th Century): In 1893, American and European business interests, along with some members of the Hawaiian elite, orchestrated the overthrow of Queen Lili'uokalani's monarchy. This eventually led to the annexation of Hawai'i by the United States in 1898.
7. American Influence and World War II (20th Century): O'ahu gained military importance during World War II due to its strategic location in the Pacific. The attack on Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941, brought the United States into World War II and had a profound impact on the island and its people.
8. Statehood and Modern O'ahu (20th Century - Present): Hawai'i became the 50th state of the United States in 1959. O'ahu continued to experience rapid urbanization and economic development, with Honolulu evolving into a major Pacific hub for tourism, business, and military activities.

Today, O'ahu is a vibrant blend of cultures and traditions, with a strong indigenous Hawaiian presence alongside a diverse population representing various ethnicities and backgrounds. Its historical significance, natural beauty, and cultural attractions make it a popular destination for both tourists and residents.

Honolulu Harbour

Arrived in Honolulu this morning on a bright sunny day that threatened to be very hot and humid. And it was! To prepare for entry to the US, we applied for an ESTA on line which was granted for a princely sum and of course passports and other photo ID were required. We had already undergone extensive identification to get on the ship but the mighty US required another round of ID, not only for people who were disembarking on tours of Honolulu and Oahu but for everyone. The entire ship (2000 +) was to be disembarked and be assessed by Immigration officials. Now, those who had paid for onshore tours through Princess would proceed to Immigration first and those who were doing their own thing or did not wish to go onshore were assessed last. So, after breakfast we trooped down to get our group number for the disembarkation process. Passengers then arranged themselves around various seating areas and awaited their call. We were #18 so most of the morning was quickly disappearing. Now it was back into a long snaking queue to take our turn for assessment. This included another photo being taken, documents examined, and for M, her fingerprints taken. My fingerprints weren’t required because …. wait for it ….I was over 80 years and no longer a threat! We were then free to enter the US while those who were going nowhere returned to the ship. One has to wonder what makes the US so special that these extra precautions are taken. The only other country where we experienced something similar was in China.

Coral Princess and Grand Princess (San Francisco to Sydney) arrive in Honolulu together

We then exited the terminal to walk about a half hour in the midday sun to the Australian Embassy to complete our voting responsibilities. There was a reasonably long line once again to negotiate but the process was well managed. One has to learn to be flexible when travelling. We had hoped to take the Waikiki hop on - hop off shuttle bus to do a loop of Honolulu. Instead we caught a local bus to the Ala Moana Shopping Centre, had a wander around, some lunch, and returned to the ship by mid afternoon. So, apart from casting our positive votes for the Voice, it was a day that did not meet our expectations. Let’s hope that our next stop in Nawiliwli is done with US Immigration.

 HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

The majority of the Hawaiian Islands are uninhabited with Ni'ihau being the westernmost island with a population of around 130 natives; no one else is allowed on the island. All the islands west of Nihau –those categorised as the Northwestern Hawaiian Islands – are unpopulated.

The Hawaiian Islands are a group of volcanic islands located in the Pacific Ocean, specifically in the central part of the Pacific. The main Hawaiian Islands are comprised of eight major islands and numerous smaller islets and atolls. From northwest to southeast, the main Hawaiian Islands are:

1.  Niʻihau: Known as the "Forbidden Island," Niʻihau is privately owned and has limited access to the public.

2.  Kauaʻi: Known as the "Garden Isle," Kauaʻi is known for its lush landscapes and natural beauty, including the stunning Waimea Canyon.

3.   Oʻahu: The most populous island and home to the state capital, Honolulu. Oʻahu is famous for Waikiki Beach, Pearl Harbor, and the iconic Diamond Head crater.

4.   Molokaʻi: Known for its rural and relaxed atmosphere, Molokaʻi is home to the highest sea cliffs in the world and the Kalaupapa National Historical Park.

5.  Lānaʻi: Once known for its pineapple plantations, Lānaʻi is now a luxury resort destination with beautiful beaches and rugged landscapes.

6.    Maui: Often called the "Valley Isle," Maui offers diverse landscapes, including the lush Iao Valley and the famous Road to Hana.

7.  Kahoʻolawe: Historically used for target practice by the military, Kahoʻolawe is now undergoing restoration efforts to recover its native ecosystem.

8.    Hawaiʻi (Big Island): The largest of the Hawaiian Islands, often referred to as the "Big Island," it is home to active volcanoes like Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. It offers a wide range of climates and landscapes, including tropical rainforests, deserts, and snow-capped mountains (Mauna Kea).

       

      Additionally, there are several smaller islets and atolls, such as Molokini, Lehua, and the Northwestern

     Hawaiian Islands (Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument), which are located northwest of the main Hawaiian Islands. Each island has its own unique character, culture, and attractions, making the Hawaiian Islands a diverse and popular tourist destination.

On 11 September 2023 Kilauea began to erupt after three months of quiet with glowing lava flows bursting within one of its craters. Check out this video of the event.

 https://www.youtube.com/usgs/live

 POLLYWOGS & SHELLBACKS

Today we crossed the Equator on our way to Hawaii. There has been a long tradition of marking the crossing of the Equator with ceremonies of some kind on Navy ships and on many cruise ships. First comers to crossing the line are known as Pollywogs and, on cruise ships at least, are offered to undertake an initiation ceremony before attaining the esteemed title of a Shellback. In earlier days on Navy ships these ceremonies were often cruel and humiliating. Today they tend to be harmlessly humiliating by being covered with last night’s dinner scraps, presented to King Neptune and thrown in the pool. On the four occasions we have crossed the line by sea, we have never admitted to being Pollywogs but enjoyed seeing others  dunked.

Cruise ships offer a wide range of activities for guests on days when there will be no port stops. M has just disappeared to the jewellery crafting shop. Not sure how much that will cost me. There’s Tai Chi and Zumba, Trivia and Sudoku, Bridge and Board Games, Line Dancing and Karaoke, Dance and Hula classes, and Enrichment Lectures. Over the many cruises we have taken, I have particularly enjoyed hearing lectures from a wide range of people who get on and off at various ports along the journey. They are often well known academics, scientists, actors or celebrities etc with something interesting to say. Today’s Enrichment Lecture is: How Big Brands Manipulate us! Well, I already know the answer to that and, in any case, we slept in beyond his 9.00am start. Each night there is a ‘Show’ of some kind in the Theatre, one at 7.30 and a repeat at 9.30. They are usually filled to capacity. Last night was an Aussie comedian who, for much of the time, interacted with and paid out on individuals in the audience. He was pretty good. Tonight’s Show is entitled Stardust and will feature this ship’s onboard singers and dancers. There is lots to do or nothing to do and after a week on this ship we are finding a rhythm in what we like to do and can now finally find our way around the ship. More than 2000 passengers are on this ship; but the only time large numbers of people are evident is at the theatre or at serve yourself ‘Gobble-and-Go’.

Apart from the self-serve option, there are two restaurants whose food offerings are included in the cruise fare. And then there are specialty restaurants like the one we booked for my birthday which charge what you would expect from a fancy restaurant. We purchased a ‘drinks package’, whose price I will leave you to find out, that allows us to have unlimited alcohol (wine & spirits), coffee, nonalcoholic beverages up to a certain price. I have informed M this morning I am having an alcohol free day today. Now, while all that might sound expensive, and it is, it allows you simply to enjoy the experience without debating whether we can afford to buy another drink. We have already purchased it! 

The big innovation for this cruise compared to all our previous cruises is the enhanced use of technology. All passengers are issued with a personalised electronic medallion one wears around the neck on a lanyard. As you approach your cabin door, a green light shows the door is now unlocked. As you approach your waiter to buy a drink, he looks into his device and greets you with your first name. As you leave your cabin, the door locks and informs your cabin steward to remake your room. There are two large TVs in our mini-suite that are also large electronic devices. Yes, you can watch TV, Movies, and receive the two football finals being played in Australia; but you can also reserve your table in the restaurant (alone or sharing) and review the menu on offer. Yesterday, we ordered lunch in our room from the phone and watched the stages of receipt, preparation, and notice of delivery. Now you understand M’s exclamation boarding the Coral Princess, ‘no more grocery shopping or food preparation for 35 days!’

Cruising on a ship like this and for long periods at sea does not suit everyone; but the older we get, the more we appreciate it. Time is spent just sitting on the balcony reading or writing, enjoying the solitude, reflecting on the privilege of a fortunate life.